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Greenland

A remote arctic wilderness

Greenland had been on my to-do list for a while. I came to know about this location while traveling on the Pamir Highway during my sabbatical. The vast, untamed beauty piqued my interest. Though most research on Greenland suggests that one must deal with a lot of uncertainty during the journey, I was eager to discover the ancient mysteries, the untold stories, and the depth of the North Atlantic. Greenland is a place where the past whispers in the wind and the ice holds thousands of years of stories.

Greenland is the world's 12th largest island, with only 56,000 inhabitants, and it is not considered a continent. To grasp its scale, it’s three times the size of Texas and half the size of India. 

Around 5,500 to 4,500 years ago, Paleo-Eskimo people from Northeast Siberia ventured into the frigid, icy, and brutal wilderness. Around 1000 AD, the Thule people—ancestors of today’s Inuit—arrived. In order to survive the rugged landscape, the initial settlers, known as ocean lords, established a dynamic culture that revolved around hunting seals, whales, and other marine species, fostering a relationship with the Arctic that continues to resonate with Greenlanders today. Hunting, fishing, and crafting are cultural hallmarks passed down through generations. Erik, the Viking, quickly implemented a clever marketing strategy. The Norse arrived, influencing the culture.

My journey began in Copenhagen, and the following day, I flew with Air Greenland to Kangerlussuaq, the main airport city. Right now, one can reach Greenland only via Copenhagen or Iceland. I was excited about the mysteries that lay ahead. I took a window seat on the right side of the aircraft, hoping to catch every moment. The travel took just over four hours.

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The prospect of landing in this remote, uncharted location filled me with excitement and wonder—a world so different from my own, the forest untouched by tourism. I couldn't stop thinking about history, people, and cultures. There were many unanswered questions. 


Greenland - Is it really Green?

      I once heard someone joke, "Iceland is green, and Greenland is white." But how did Greenland get its name, especially when there are no trees? In a world without the Internet, the Viking explorer Erik the Red used a clever marketing strategy to attract settlers. He named the place "Greenland," despite its icy landscape. Even though the climate was warmer during the Middle Ages than it is now, most of the island is still covered by an ice sheet that's over two kilometers thick in some areas.


Does Greenland's climate really resembles the Sahara? 

       I was astonished to learn that Greenland's icy environment is dry and sparse like the Sahara Desert. Like how? Greenland receive less than 250 millimeters (10 inches) of precipitation yearly, making it an Arctic desert like the Sahara.   


Did kayak originate in Greenland?   

       Early settlers firmly draped driftwood, whalebone, and skin frames to make kayaks. They used whale blubber and seal bladders to make the kayak waterproof and buoyant. The Inuit made these canoes for hunting. The Umaiq, a bigger Kayak, carried passengers. Greenland also has a plant, Saxifraga oppositifolia, that is in the shape of a kayak. 


Greenland is 12th largest island in the world that is not a continent. 

      To grasp it’s scale, it is  three times the size of Texas and half the size of India.  


First Settlers Over 5,500 Years Ago

          Greenland's history is one of resilience, ingenuity, and an unbreakable connection to Mother earth.

Around 5,500 to 4,500 years ago, Paleo-Eskimo people from Northeast Siberia,along with their dogs, followed by Thule people (in 1000 AD) —ancestors of today’s Inuit—arrived. Known as masters of the ocean, they built a vibrant culture centered on hunting seals, whales, and other marine life, forging a bond with the Arctic that still resonates with Greenland’s people today. Hunting, fishing, and craftsmanship are not merely skills but integral parts of cultural identity, passed down through generations and one can feel this tradition wovened into their culture even today.


Greenland’s Languages

       Greenlandic (Kalaallisut) is the official language of Greenland and is spoken by most of the population. It’s part of the Eskimo-Aleut language family, characterized by its complex grammar and long, descriptive words. For instance,  Kangalussaq means “big fjord. It is infact situated on the plain overlooking the 170-km long fjord. At the fjord’s midpoint lies the Artic circle. You get a brownie point if you can pronounce the names of the place right. Google translator doesn’t have Greenlandic language.


The Country with the World's Lowest Population Density

          The least densely populated country on the planet. It has only around 56,000 habitants. Not all the settlements are equally populated. 


No hospitals in most cities:
        Instead, there are nurse stations and air ambulances. Most settlements have air ambulances that can take you to a larger city in case of an emergency.


No roads between most islands:
       People mostly travel by boat between islands.


No traffic lights:
       Except for Nuuk, where there are two traffic lights, the rest of the country doesn't have any signals.


Highest golf course:
       At Kangerlussuaq, we came across a privately owned 16 hole golf course. This was bought by an American when there was a military base.


Northern Lights:

       The Northern Lights actually have scary stories for kids, where the spirits of deceased ancestors are said to dance in the sky.


No security check for domestic travel:

      There are no security checks for domestic flights. You can simply walk from the gate to the plane.


Color of the houses:

Every house color has a meaning. For instance, yellow signifies a hospital, while green indicates a grocery store 


Everyone has their own snowmobile.

The main modes of transport in Greenland are either snowmobiles or boats. Everyone owns one, and it’s parked outside their house.


Let's know more about Western Greenland - Kangerlussuaq, Illulissat, Sisimuit, and Nuuk, with my camera in my backpack

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